Rock Climbing On Lundy
Ever since I first picked up the Ken Wilson Classic Rock ** book, the most striking of all the routes had to be Devil Slide on the Island of Lundy. The Steep granite sea cliff that offers a range of routes ranging from about VS upwards really does offer some amazing climbing. Rock Climbing on Lundy is an experience in its own right, not just the climbing but also being able to surround yourself in “island life”.
The Isle of Lundy lies off the coast of North Devon, where the Atlantic ocean meets the Bristol Channel with nothing between it and America. The island of Lundy is 3 miles (5 km) long from north to south and a little over 1 kilometre wide. The vast majority of the climbing is on the west side of the island.
Rock climbing on Lundy has to be one of, if not the most outstanding adventures. The journey across the sea in the MS Oldenburgh is unforgettable and only adds to the ‘island experience’, which really is quite unlike anything in UK.
*** Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock is one of the most popular and iconic works of climbing literature ever written. Along with Hard Rock and Extreme Rock, it has acquired something of a legendary status.
First published in 1978, Classic Rock represented the absolute best of British climbing at that time, quickly establishing itself as a must-have publication. It is a celebration of 80 of the best lower-grade routes in the UK, bringing them to life through a superb selection of photographs, anecdotes and essays from some of the most accomplished climbers of the day.
SOME TOP TIPS FOR CLIMBING ON LUNDY
- Bring your climbing gear on as hand luggage. If you’re camping or staying on the island once you have left the boat you’ll be able to head straight out climbing. If you don’t you could be waiting about 6 hours until you get your gear. Trust me we learnt the hard way. While you’re climbing they will put your hold luggage at the place you’re staying.
- Bring at least a 80 meter static rope and a long rigging rope – Most of the climbing on Lundy is done by abseiling so it really is worth having a good length of abseiling rope. It can be problematic if you have only a 50 meter rope. It is also worth mentioning that the rock can be extremely sharpe so it could be worth picking up some rope protectors.
- There is a shop and pub on the island – The shop on Lundy offers all the same sort of things you would expect from any local store and was well stocked. The pub on the island Marisco Tavern serves great food and drinks through out the day, plus the staff were amazing. The do accept card payment so you do not need to bring cash. When you arrive they will ask if you would like to set up a tab, I will leave that to you to decide whether you do or don’t!
Popular routes on Lundy island
- Devils slide – HS 4a
- Albion VS 4c
- Shamrock VS 4c
- Indy 500 – E1 5b
- Satan Slip – E1 5a
There clearly so much more Lundy just this and if your rock climbing up to E3-E4 your in for a treat !
WHEN TO VISIT LUNDY ?
Most climbing areas are closed due to bird restrictions from 31st March – 14th August with some areas closed until the 15th September. So with out a doubt it’s worth going when these end so you have full access to the crags. Of course you can visit during these time’s if you wish but your choices of climbing will be very limited.
GETTING TO LUNDY ?
Most people get the boat across from Bideford via the MS Oldenburgh. The cost for the boat is £44 for day return ( adult ) and £76 for a period return. If the weather is bad enough not to set sail you could end up on helicopter! There is an additional cost for this though so it’s worth checking this before you head out.
PLACES TO STAY ON LUNDY ?
Most climbers stay at the campsite which was about £10 per night. The showers are good and there is drinking water on site.There is plenty of accommodation but book early as they seem to fill up soon. We chatted to a few folk and they said you cant check in until 3 so its worth bearing that in mind.
