What VS, HVS and E Grades Mean
If you’re new to traditional (trad) climbing in the UK, the grading system can look confusing at first.
Guidebooks list routes with grades like VS 4c, HVS 5a, or E2 5c, but what do these actually mean when you’re standing at the bottom of a crag?
As climbing instructors we hear this question all the time from climbers transitioning from indoor or sport climbing to trad:
“What do British trad climbing grades actually tell me?”
In this guide by Adventuring we’ll break down the UK trad climbing grading system, explain how the grades work, and show what they feel like on real routes in places like the Lake District and Skye.
The Two-Part UK Trad Climbing Grade
British trad climbs use two different grades:
👉The Adjectival Grade
👉The Technical Grade
For example:
HVS 5a
This tells you two things:
- HVS (Hard Very Severe) → the overall seriousness and difficulty of the climb
- 5a → the hardest single move on the route
The key thing to understand is that the adjectival grade reflects the whole experience.
That includes:
- Length of the climb
- Exposure
- Protection quality
- Endurance required
- Seriousness
This is what makes trad climbing different from sport climbing grades.
Quick Guide to UK Trad Climbing Grades
Adjective Grade
Moderate
Diff ( D )
Very Difficult ( VD )
Sever ( S )
Very Sever ( VS )
Hard Very Sever ( HVS )
E1 +
Difficulty Level
Hard Scrambling / Beginners
Beginners
Intermediate
Hard
Classic climbing grade
Advanced
Expert
Experience
Scrambling terrain
Easy climbing
Easy sustained climbing
Steeper Climbing
Sustained Climbing
Hard moved and exposure
Expert
Adjectival Grades Explained
Moderate (M)
Moderate routes are usually closer to scrambling than climbing.
You might encounter:
- short rock steps
- simple moves
- little technical difficulty
Terrain like this often appears on mountain scrambles such as routes on Helvellyn or the Cuillin hills.
If you’re interested in moving from scrambling into technical climbing terrain, mountain routes such as the Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye are a natural progression for many climbers.
Difficult (D) and Very Difficult (VD)
At this level you’re properly rock climbing rather than scrambling.
You’ll start to encounter:
- steeper rock
- simple protection placements
- basic route finding
These grades are common stepping stones for climbers learning to place gear outdoors.
Many climbers develop these skills on structured training days such as multi-pitch climbing courses in the Lake District, where rope systems and gear placements are taught in a safe environment.
Severe (S) and Hard Severe (HS)
Now the climbing becomes more sustained.
Expect:
steeper routes
more technical moves
trickier gear placements
increased exposure
Climbs at this level require better footwork and composure above protection. This is the required grade of climbing to become a UK Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor and full member of AMI. Many people who get to this grade look to do a climbing course to learn the skills needed to progress
Very Severe (VS)
VS is a milestone grade for many trad climbers.
Routes often involve:
- sustained climbing
- good but sometimes spaced protection
- exposed positions
Example VS Route
A classic VS 4c example in the Lake District is Eve on Shepherds crag in Borrowdale
The climbing involves delicate slab moves and careful footwork, but protection is generally solid.
Hard Very Severe (HVS)
At HVS the difficulty increases significantly.
Climbers encounter:
- steeper climbing
- harder crux moves
- longer sustained sections
Example HVS Route
A famous HVS 5a route is Troutdale Pinnacle Direct in Borrowdale.
The climbing is steep and exposed with exciting moves around the pinnacle.
Extreme Grades (E1 and Above)
Once you move beyond HVS, you enter the Extreme grading system.
Examples include: E1 – E2 – E3 all the way up to E11
These grades combine:
technical difficulty
seriousness
gear quality
sustained climbing
For example:
E1 5b
The moves might not be extremely hard, but the route could be sustained, exposed, or poorly protected.
Technical Grades Explained
The technical grade describes the hardest move on the route.
Technical Grade | Difficulty |
4a–4c | straightforward climbing |
5a–5b | technical climbing requiring good footwork |
5c–6a | harder climbing requiring strength and technique |
6b+ | advanced climbing |
Remember:
The technical grade only describes one move.
The overall experience may feel much harder depending on exposure, gear placements and route length.
UK Trad Grades vs Sport Climbing Grades
Many climbers who learn indoors wonder how trad grades compare to sport climbing grades.
Here is a rough comparison.
Trad Grade | Approx Sport Grade |
VS 4c | 5+ / 6a |
HVS 5a | 6a / 6a+ |
E1 5b | 6b |
E2 5c | 6b+ |
However this comparison is not exact.
Trad climbing grades include:
- protection difficulty
- mental challenge
- exposure
- route finding
This is why even moderate technical climbs like the Inaccessible Pinnacle can feel committing despite relatively simple climbing moves.
From Trad Climbing to Mountain
Many climbers who become comfortable climbing at VS or HVS start exploring bigger mountain routes.
Classic objectives include:
- alpine-style ridges
- big multi-pitch climbs
- Scottish mountaineering routes
One of the most famous is the Cuillin Ridge Traverse on Skye, a long and committing mountaineering route combining scrambling, climbing and route finding across the entire Black Cuillin ridge.
How to Progress Through Trad Grades Safely
Trad climbing is a skill-based activity and progression takes time.
Important skills to develop include:
- gear placement
- anchor building
- rope systems
- route finding
- efficient movement on rock
Structured instruction can dramatically accelerate this process.
Many climbers learn these skills through trad climbing courses or multi-pitch instruction in the Lake District or by doing a climbers rescues course , where instructors can teach safe systems and decision-making in real climbing environments.
Common Mistakes When Understanding Trad Grades
Many climbers misunderstand trad grades at first.
Common assumptions include:
Technical grade equals overall difficulty
Not true. A route with an easy crux may still be sustained or poorly protected.
Trad grades equal sport grades
They don’t. Trad grades include seriousness and gear placements.
Protection will always be obvious
Gear placements are not always straightforward, especially on mountain routes.
FAQ
UK Trad Climbing Grades
What does HVS mean in climbing?
HVS stands for Hard Very Severe, a trad climbing grade indicating sustained climbing with harder moves and greater exposure compared to VS routes.
What does E1 mean in climbing?
E1 is the first Extreme grade in the British trad climbing system. It indicates increased seriousness combined with technical climbing.
What is the hardest trad climbing grade?
The hardest trad climbs in the UK currently reach E11, representing extremely technical climbing with significant risk and difficulty.
Are trad grades harder than sport grades?
Trad grades often feel harder because they include factors like gear placements, exposure and route finding, not just the physical moves.
Want to Learn Trad Climbing Safely?
You might also like
“How to Learn Trad Climbing in the Lake District”
“Best Places to Learn Trad Climbing in the UK”
“What to Expect on a Trad Climbing Course”
