Ever since I first picked up the Ken Wilson Classic Rock ** book, the most striking of all the routes had to be Devil Slide on the Island of Lundy. The Steep granite sea cliff that offers a range of routes ranging from about VS upwards really does offer some amazing climbing. Rock Climbing on Lundy is an experience in its own right, not just the climbing but also being able to surround yourself in “island life”.
The Isle of Lundy lies off the coast of North Devon, where the Atlantic ocean meets the Bristol Channel with nothing between it and America. The island of Lundy is 3 miles (5 km) long from north to south and a little over 1 kilometre wide. The vast majority of the climbing is on the west side of the island.
Rock climbing on Lundy has to be one of, if not the most outstanding adventures. The journey across the sea in the MS Oldenburgh is unforgettable and only adds to the ‘island experience’, which really is quite unlike anything in UK.
*** Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock is one of the most popular and iconic works of climbing literature ever written. Along with Hard Rock and Extreme Rock, it has acquired something of a legendary status.
First published in 1978, Classic Rock represented the absolute best of British climbing at that time, quickly establishing itself as a must-have publication. It is a celebration of 80 of the best lower-grade routes in the UK, bringing them to life through a superb selection of photographs, anecdotes and essays from some of the most accomplished climbers of the day.
WHEN TO VISIT LUNDY ?
Most climbing areas are closed due to bird restrictions from 31st March – 14th August with some areas closed until the 15th September. So with out a doubt it’s worth going when these end so you have full access to the crags. Of course you can visit during these time’s if you wish but your choices of climbing will be very limited.
GETTING TO LUNDY ?
Most people get the boat across from Bideford via the MS Oldenburgh. The cost for the boat is £44 for day return ( adult ) and £76 for a period return. If the weather is bad enough not to set sail you could end up on helicopter! There is an additional cost for this though so it’s worth checking this before you head out.
PLACES TO STAY ON LUNDY ?
Most climbers stay at the campsite which was about £10 per night. The showers are good and there is drinking water on site.There is plenty of accommodation but book early as they seem to fill up soon. We chatted to a few folk and they said you cant check in until 3 so its worth bearing that in mind.